ROXSI

The ONR-funded, ROcky shores eXperiments and SImulations (ROXSI) project studies the coastal ocean dynamical processes on rocky shorelines through combined in situ and remote sensing observations, and high-fidelity CFD and community models. Up to 75% of the world’s coastlines are rocky, and in contrast to well-studied sandy shores, rocky shores are inherently multiscale with complex three-dimensional geometries from cm to 100s m. Multiscale bottom variability strongly affects wave processes, such as scattering, reflection, nonlinear energy transfers, and dissipation that are dramatically different from sandy beaches. See link above to ROXSI wave nowcast.

Moana Project

The Moana project, aims to deliver open-access, high fidelity numerical circulation models to ocean stakeholders in coastal areas around New Zealand. With students and research collaborators, I work on coastal-resolving simulations of particle transport and water properties.

Inner shelf

The inner shelf is an important gateway between the surfzone and the continental shelf for the transport of heat, sediment, entrained gases, nutrients, pollutants, and biota. Here waves, circulation, and temperature vary overa wide range of spatial and temporal scales, and are driven by an array of processes forced by variable coastal bathymetry. See our review paper here. Figure from Moulton et al., 2023.