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Backpacking Along Hadrian’s Wall |
| Dr.Larry Usilton of the History faculty at UNC-Wilmington and Gabriel Barbee,
an English and Psychology major, spent fall break backpacking along
Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland, England.
Construction of the Wall was begun by the Roman emperor Hadrian in
A.D. 122 in an effort to delineate the northern frontier of the empire
against the barbarians to the north.
When complete, the Wall stretched intact with fortresses and
turrets from one side of England to the other, a distance of about
seventy-three miles. For
Usilton and his traveling companion, the adventure began on foot in the
large city of Newcastle at Wallsend, the eastern most extremity of the
ancient fortification. As
very little of the Wall can be seen between Newcastle and Chollerford, the
backpackers spent most of their time following the known course of the
Wall through small villages along the B6318 or the Old Military Road.
Here and there small fragments of the Wall appeared along the road
in pastures inhabited by sheep, horses, and cattle---just enough to give
the two adventurers renewed hope that greater stretches would soon be
seen. All the while, it was
necessary to remain vigilant as cars and lorries zoomed by at great speeds
forcing the hikers onto the very narrow and oftentimes non-existent
shoulders of the road.
You can contact Dr. Usilton at 910-962-3312
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| Two days
of pounding the pavement and dodging traffic eventually took its toll.
Gabriel developed blisters and had to withdraw leaving Usilton to
complete the quest alone. Some miles beyond Chollerford, he was able to leave the road
and ascend to vast stretches of the Wall which extend for miles over undulating terrain.
It was here that the solitary hiker
encountered the most spectacular views of the journey---Housesteads
Crags with, perhaps, the most well- preserved
Roman fort in northern Europe, Highshield Crags from whose lofty
basalt columns one can view Crag Lough, a beautiful wetland sanctuary
frequented by ducks and swans, Sycamore
Gap, made famous by Kevin Costner in his movie about Robin Hood,
and Winshields Crags where, at an elevation of 1132 feet, one has a
marvelous view of the surrounding countryside.
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| Unfortunately, inclement weather---two days of continuous rain---which rendered the footing along the Wall very treacherous, forced Usilton to abandon the trek in the vicinity of Walltown Crags. Although disappointed, Usilton has pledged to return to the Wall at some future date to finish the mission. He is reasonably certain that, after almost two-thousand years, the Wall will still be there. |